The Sacromonte

Perched on Mount Valparaíso, opposite the Alhambra, the Sacromonte district is one of Granada’s most soulful places. Its white cave houses, winding streets, and Gypsy heritage make it a spot where history, culture, and landscape coexist in perfect harmony. More than a place, it is an experience.

Visiting the Sacromonte is not just about ticking a box on a tourist list. It is about pausing, listening, and letting yourself be carried away by a different rhythm. Here, history is not in books: it is in the earth, in the whitewashed walls, in the mournful cry of song, and in the steps of dance.

In a city like Granada, where every corner seems to tell a story, the Sacromonte stands out for being unlike anywhere else. It is, quite simply, one of those places you do not just visit—you live it.

History

The Sacromonte is one of the most distinctive and character-filled places in Granada. Its history begins in the late 15th century, after the conquest of the city by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492.

With the fall of Granada, many communities found themselves excluded from the new Christian society. On the steep slopes of the Darro River valley—remote from the urban core—settled Gypsies arriving from various parts of Europe seeking refuge, freed slaves or those abandoned by Muslims in their flight, and other groups marginalised for religious or social reasons.

These communities began to dig caves into the hillside, or inhabit those that already existed, creating a unique troglodyte form of housing. Adapted to the terrain and climate, these caves provided warmth in winter and coolness in summer. Over time, this way of life became a hallmark of the district, and it still forms part of its essence today.

For centuries, the neighbourhood was a mosaic of cultures and traditions. Gypsy families brought their music, dance, and customs, blending them with Arab and Christian influences to create a unique identity. This gave birth to the zambra, a form of flamenco singing and dancing with Moorish and Gypsy roots, which remains one of the living symbols of the district.

Flamenco, as we know it today, has one of its cradles precisely in these Sacromonte caves.

The Legend of the Sacred

In the late 16th century, Mount Valparaíso experienced an event that would deeply mark its history and give it its name. In 1595, in ancient caves and Roman kilns, supposed relics of Saint Caecilius—considered a disciple of the Apostle James and the first bishop of Ilíberis—were discovered, along with mysterious lead tablets inscribed in Arabic and Latin, known as the Plúmbeos Books. These texts, which combined Christian and Islamic elements, were presented as evidence of early Christianity in Granada, although they were later proven to be forgeries, likely created for political or religious purposes.

The discovery had a huge impact on Granada at the time, a city still marked by religious tensions after the expulsion of the Moriscos. The news was hailed as a miracle and sparked a wave of popular devotion. In the following years, around 1,200 crosses were erected on the hill, many promoted by craft guilds, as symbols of faith and pilgrimage. Today, only five remain.

In 1600, the Abbey of the Sacromonte was founded to guard the relics and organise religious life around them.

From then on, Mount Valparaíso became known as the Sacromonte, the “sacred mount”, and was linked not only to popular religiosity but also to the cultural and spiritual identity of the city.

In 1633, the Franciscans established a Way of the Cross connecting the city to the summit, ending at a small chapel dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre. The site became an important centre of pilgrimage, especially on Saint Caecilius’ Day, the patron saint of Granada.

Despite the district’s historical poverty and centuries of isolation, the Sacromonte has retained a very strong identity. Today, it is a symbol of Granada’s popular culture, famous for its caves, flamenco zambras, and spectacular views of the Alhambra—a neighbourhood born out of exclusion, which over time became a living heritage of Granada.

What to See and Do in the Sacromonte

Walking through the Sacromonte is like touring an open-air museum. The troglodyte architecture of its still-inhabited cave houses creates an aesthetic found nowhere else. To better understand this way of life, the Sacromonte Caves Museum offers a visit to recreated caves complete with tools, furniture, and scenes of daily life. The museum also hosts exhibitions on flamenco, Gypsy culture, and other aspects of the Sacromonte’s identity.

The Abbey of the Sacromonte, built in the 17th century, is a must-see. Inside are the supposed relics of Saint Caecilius, the city’s patron saint, and the famous Plúmbeos Books. From the Abbey, you will enjoy one of the most privileged views of the Alhambra and Granada.

But the soul of the district is most alive at night, when its caves fill with music, guitars, and flamenco. Tablaos such as Los Tarantos, La Rocío, Venta El Gallo, or María la Canastera offer intimate flamenco shows, many in the very caves where previous generations lived and danced. The Gypsy zambra, with its hypnotic rhythm and ancestral sensuality, remains one of the district’s greatest cultural attractions.

The Sacromonte’s viewpoints, such as the Vereda de Enmedio or the Abbey’s own, offer some of the best views of the Alhambra, especially at sunset. Away from the bustle of the city centre, the district invites you to wander slowly among its alleyways, bougainvillaea, and fresh air.

Where to Eat in the Sacromonte

In the Sacromonte, you can sample authentic Granadan cuisine. Dishes such as the Tortilla del Sacromonte—made with brains and testicles—sit alongside aubergines with honey, migas, and traditional stews.

Some tablaos offer dinner with the show; others have terraces overlooking the Darro valley. Most are on or near the Camino del Sacromonte, such as Venta El Gallo, Cueva Los Tarantos, Cueva Zincalé, Cueva la Faraona, or Cueva La Rocío.

Also on the Camino del Sacromonte is Casa Juanillo, serving typical Granadan and Andalusian dishes.

You can go for tapas on the Camino del Sacromonte itself at Bar Bocadillería Pibe, where each drink comes with a free tapa, as is customary in Granada. The bar offers a wide variety of Spanish dishes, including vegetarian stews.

Other tapas bars include Los Faroles or Casa Juan Maya.

For coffee, breakfast, or a snack or drink, try Rincón del Chapiz.

It is advisable to check availability, opening hours, and reviews online.

How to Get to the Sacromonte

On foot

From the centre of Granada, it is a 25–30 minute walk via the Paseo de los Tristes and the Cuesta del Chapiz, continuing along the Camino del Sacromonte. Alternatively, take San Juan de los Reyes and climb the Cuestecilla de la Alboreá.

By bus

From Plaza Nueva, you can take lines C31, C32, and C34 to the Cuesta del Chapiz stop. The journey takes around 13 minutes via the Carrera del Darro.

By car or taxi

The Sacromonte has restrictions on private traffic. If you want to go by car, the best option is to park at the San Cristóbal car park (Ctra. de Murcia) and walk.

Another option is to take a taxi, although fares vary depending on the distance from your starting point and the time of day.